Tile Installation Questions
Straight answers to what homeowners and business owners ask us most.
Before the Job Starts
Do I need to remove existing tile before you start?
Not necessarily — we assess the existing surface during the walkthrough. If the current tile is well-bonded, flat, and in good condition, tiling over it can sometimes work depending on the height transitions and door clearances involved. More often, demo is the right call because it lets us inspect and fix the substrate directly. We'll give you a clear recommendation with the reasoning behind it.
How far in advance should I book tile work?
For a standard bathroom or kitchen backsplash, reaching out two to four weeks ahead gives us time to schedule a walkthrough, confirm material selections, and get everything ordered. Larger commercial projects or full bathroom guts with multiple trades involved benefit from more lead time. We can sometimes accommodate shorter timelines depending on our current schedule — calling (872) 465-4204 is the fastest way to check availability.
Do you provide the tile and materials, or do I supply them?
Either approach works. Some clients prefer to select and purchase their own tile from a showroom; others want us to source everything. If you're supplying tile, we'll give you a precise quantity with an overage percentage factored in for cuts and breakage. We supply all the setting materials — thinset, grout, membrane, backer board — since using the right products for the specific tile and substrate matters more than most people realize.
During the Install
How do you handle large-format tiles differently from standard tiles?
Large-format tiles — anything above 15 inches in either dimension — require a few specific techniques. The substrate needs to be flatter (within 1/8 inch over 10 feet rather than 3/16 inch). The mortar needs to be a medium-bed or large-format formula to support the tile without sagging. We back-butter each tile to ensure full contact, and we use larger-notch trowels (typically a 1/2-inch V-notch or U-notch). Expansion joints are placed at all perimeter walls and in the field at intervals based on the tile size and room conditions.
What grout do you typically use, and why does it matter?
Grout selection depends on joint width and location. For joints under 1/8 inch, unsanded grout is used because sand particles are too large and cause cracking. For joints over 1/8 inch, sanded grout is standard. In wet areas or high-traffic floors, epoxy grout is sometimes the right call — it's stain-resistant and doesn't need sealing, though it's harder to work with and more expensive. We discuss grout options during the estimate so there are no surprises on finish day.
Will tile installation damage the rest of my home?
Tile work involves cutting, grinding, and mixing mortar — all of which create dust and some noise. We use wet-cutting saws that contain most of the dust, and we hang plastic sheeting at doorways when working in occupied homes. Floors outside the work area get covered with rosin paper. We clean the work area at the end of each day. Some vibration from cutting is unavoidable, but we take care not to damage adjacent surfaces or fixtures.
After the Install
How long do I need to stay off new tile floors?
Light foot traffic is usually fine after 24 hours for standard thinset. Heavy loads or wet-area use requires a longer cure — typically 72 hours before grouting and another 24-48 hours after grouting before the shower or tub is used. In cooler conditions (common in Illinois in fall and winter), cure times extend. We'll give you specific timing based on the products used and the ambient conditions on your job.
Does natural stone tile need to be sealed?
Most natural stone does, yes. Marble, travertine, limestone, and slate are porous and will absorb stains — particularly in kitchens and bathrooms — without a penetrating sealer applied after installation. Porcelain tile that mimics stone does not need sealing. We'll let you know whether your specific tile needs sealing and can apply it as part of the project or advise you on a maintenance schedule going forward.
What causes grout to crack, and can it be prevented?
Grout cracks most often from substrate movement — a floor that flexes slightly under load, or a wall that shifts with temperature changes. This is why we address subfloor deflection before setting tile and why perimeter expansion joints (filled with flexible caulk, not grout) are important at wall-to-floor transitions and inside corners. Grout itself has no flexibility; caulk does. Using grout in an inside corner where two planes meet is a common installation error that leads to cracking within a year or two.